LET THE FEAST BEGIN - Cafe Milano

LET THE FEAST BEGIN

By Chuck Graham, TucsonStage.com

To help get through the coronavirus crisis Bernice Chesi and I want to encourage you to dine out now and then in the comfort of your own social-distance observing home.

Each weekend we are going to order out dinner from an iconic local restaurant, create as much of a restaurant atmosphere as possible at home, pretend we are dining out and report on the experience!

 

Even though some restaurants will be re-opening soon under restricted conditions, some Tucsonans will prefer to wait awhile and see what happens. Enjoying another carryout meal or two at home may be just the ticket.

 

Bernice Chesi and Chuck Graham toast the freshly lit candles to begin their feast from Cafe Milano. In the foreground is a bowl of mussels and a basket of bread.

As the coronavirus drags on, the need grows for a dinner experience that feels particularly special. Our favorite to-the-rescue call is always downtown to Chef Fufi (Fulvia Steffenone) holding forth in the supremely intimate Cafe Milano, just a few doors west of the Fox Theater at 46 W. Congress St., www.lafuficaffemilano.com (520-628-1601).

With visions of slipping into the companionable Italian style, enjoying several courses that could extend into multiple hours of dining in soft candlelight (calling for very tall candles), Bernice went into planning mode, setting out a selection of bowls and casserole dishes to keep the entrees for the primi and secondi piatti warm in a 175 degree oven (we chose Spaghetti alla carbonara followed by Chicken – Pollo al Marsala – and Veal – Scaloppine al limone), while we first enjoyed a bowl of mussels – Cozze alla diavola – with bread dipped in that snappy red sauce, and then a chilled salad – Insalata di spinaci con caprino alle mandorle – that was kept waiting in the refrigerator.

Cafe Milano has a wonderful wine cellar of choices, but we went instead for an in-house selection of Chianti Classico from the wine cellar at home.

We also discovered that, after a leisurely repast of such rich dishes, a spoonful of dessert will feel absolutely necessary. Compulsively, we had also picked up one serving of Tiramisu, to which we added some freshly brewed stovetop espresso (regular dark roast coffee works great, too).

Trust me, when you order from Chef Fufi at Cafe Milano, all the time spent on these proper preparations will be fully appreciated as the evening progresses.

Back home, unpacking our order from several containers of generous portions, we discovered each one had already been artfully arranged, so transplanting them to a proper plate for dinner was a piece of cake (so to speak). We also found a complimentary basket of rolls, bread and freshly grated Parmesan.

Meanwhile, Pandora's satellite radio provided a tasty program of Italian crooners to fill the background during these preparations.

The mussels did get a quick re-heating in the microwave, opening up flavors both tender and spicy. The deep diablo sauce does live up to its name.

The lightly dressed insalata di spinaci of vibrantly fresh baby spinach also includes red bell peppers, goat cheese, honey almonds, artichoke hearts, red onions and tomatoes with each ingredient pushing the total salad flavor a little higher.

A portion of Spaghetti alla carbonara.

Now with our taste buds fully opened up, primed for sensitivity and eager for something substantial, it was time for the Primi piatti of Spaghetti alla carbonara ...greeted with long sighs of satisfaction and it seems, a little singing (at least in my heart).

Carbonara's extra hearty attitude bolstered by crispy bacon, eggs and Parmesan sauce embraced us like an old friend (which it is, whenever we visit Cafe Milano). Chef Fufi's traditional version has a balance of flavors that always urges me to spin that fork a little faster.

Then it is time for the palate to get serious, for the Chef's most thoughtful cuisine is at hand.

Our dish of  Pollo al Marsala.

 

Our two entrees, chicken and veal, were similar in being delicate cuts simmered to pinnacles of tenderness, each building expressive flavors differently in the company of compatible vegetables. If you are into sharing, combine bites of each dish for twin peaks of pleasure.

The chicken is served with baby carrots and peas in a luxuriously creamy sauce with a beguiling smile.

Tempting Scaloppine al limone to share.

The veal is equally tender, with a depth that invites more intense pondering. Is it from the tangy lemon or those encouraging hours of candlelight and wine?

By this point in the evening, gracefulness comes easy, so a gentle pause to fill up the espresso machine and spoon out the Tiramisu almost seems to happen by itself.

As three hours have flown by, Italian style, the sweet dessert floats on our memory of the entire evening. The food, the conversation, the escape back into what life should always be about.

And will be again...one day.

 

One serving of Tiramisu split three ways, with home-brewed espresso and candles.

 

Chuck Graham taking notes while the Insalata di spinaci con caprino alle mandorle sits patiently.